Gravitas Blog

The following is a great write up Houston Neal asked us to post to our readers in the sustainable building community. A comprehensive look at the proposed Cash for Caulkers proposal. We are all waiting on word if it will pass the Senate. Enjoy.

By: Houston Neal

Director of Marketing at Software Advice 

(512) 364-0117
LinkedIn »

Houston joined Software Advice in 2007, just shortly after the company was started. He spends most of his day writing for the company blog and getting the word out about Software Advice’s resources. He enjoys researching and reporting trends in software and technology, and has a particular interest in developments in “green” technology.

Director of Marketing, Software Advice
on 6/11/2010

“Cash for Caulkers” is nearly here. Last month the House of Representatives passed H.R. 5019 – also known as the Home Star Energy Retrofit Act of 2010 or “Cash for Caulkers” – to kick-start construction, create jobs and cut back carbon emissions. While the bill still needs to clear the Senate, supporters predict it will pass this summer.

This is great news for homeowners and contractors alike. The bill provisions $6 billion for energy-efficient or “green” retrofits. It is expected to fund renovations for 3 million families, create 168,000 new jobs and save consumers $9.2 billion on energy bills over the next 10 years.

But in order to cash in on upcoming rebates, homeowners and contractors will need to do their homework. There are 13 types of retrofits eligible for funding. Each retrofit has unique eligibility requirements and set rebate amounts. You can read the full text here.

We made it really easy to wade through the legalese. Below is a table that breaks down the 13 retrofits of the bill, along with the requirements and rebate amount for each. In addition to the requirements we listed, each retrofit must comply with Building Performance Institute (BPI) standards or other procedures to be approved by the Secretary of Energy.

Retrofit
Requirements
Rebate Amount

Air sealing
Rebate covers both interior and exterior sealing and includes use of the following products: sealants, caulks, insulating foams, gaskets, weather-stripping, mastics, and other building materials.
$1,500

Attic insulation
Must meet the attic portions of the Department of Energy (DOE) or Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) thermal bypass checklist. You must add at least R–19 insulation to existing insulation, and it must result in at least R–38 insulation in DOE climate zones 1 through 4 and at least R–49 insulation in DOE climate zones 5 through 8. Finally, it must cover at least 100 percent of an accessible attic or 75 percent of the total conditioned footprint of the house.
$1,000

Duct replacement and sealing
Sealing must be installed in accordance with BPI standards or other procedures approved by the Secretary of Energy. For duct replacement, you must replace and seal at least 50 percent of a distribution system of the home.
$1,000

Wall insulation
Insulation must be installed to full-stud thickness or add at least R–10 of continuous insulation. It must covers at least 75 percent of the total external wall area of the home.
$1,500

Crawl space or basement insulation
Insulation must cover at least 500 square feet of crawl space or basement wall and add at least R–19 of cavity insulation or R–15 of continuous insulation to existing crawl space insulation; or R–13 of cavity insulation or R–10 of continuous insulation to basement walls. For rim joist insulation, you must fully cover the rim joist with at least R–10 of new continuous or R–13 of cavity insulation.
$250 for rim joist insulation

Window replacement
Must replace at least 8 exterior windows, or 75 percent of the exterior windows in a home, whichever is less, with windows that are certified by the National Fenestration Rating Council. Must comply with criteria applicable to windows under section 25(c) of the Internal Revenue Code of 1986 or, in areas above 5,000 feet elevation, have a U-factor of at least 0.35 when replacing windows that are single-glazed or double-glazed with an internal air space of 1/4 inch or less.
$1,000

Door or skylight replacement
Must replace at least 1 exterior door or skylight with doors or skylights that comply with the 2010 Energy Star specification for doors or skylights.
$125 per door or skylight with a limit of 2 doors and 2 skylights

Heating system replacement
See second table below
$1,000

Air-source air conditioner or heat pump installation
Must be installed in accordance with ANSI/ACCA Standard 5 QI–2007. The air-source air conditioner must meet or exceed SEER 16 and EER 13; or SEER 18 and EER 15. The air-source heat pump must meet or exceed SEER 15, EER 12.5, and HSPF 8.5.
$1,500

Geothermal heat pump installation
Must be an Energy Star qualified geothermal heat pump that meets Tier 2 efficiency requirements and that is installed in accordance with ANSI/ACCA Standard 5 QI–2007.
$1,000

Water heater replacement
See third table below
$1,000

Storm windows or doors installation
Must be installed on at least 5 existing doors or existing single-glazed windows. Must comply with any procedures that the Secretary of Energy may set for storm windows or doors and their installation.
$50 for each window or door with a minimum of 5 windows or doors and a maximum of 12

Window film installation
Window film that is installed on at least 8 exterior windows, doors, or skylights, or 75 percent of the total exterior square footage of glass in a home, whichever is more, with window films that are certified by the National Fenestration Rating Council. Must have a solar heat gain coefficient of 0.43 or less with a visible light-to-solar heat gain coefficient of at least 1.1 for installations in 2009 International Energy Conservation Code climate zones 1–3; or a solar heat gain coefficient of 0.43 or less with a visible light light-to-solar heat gain coefficient of at least 1.1 and a U-factor of 0.40 or less as installed in 2009 International Energy Conservation Code climate zones 4–8.
$500

We also decided to combine these retrofits into three packages that will help homeowners get the best bang for their buck. But first, let’s review the program details.

Who is Eligible and How to Qualify?
The Home Star bill offers two rebate programs, the “Silver Star” program and “Gold Star” program. Here are details for each:

• Silver Star – Unless another amount is specified in the “Rebate Amount” column above, homeowners will receive a $1,000 rebate for each retrofit listed in our table. The maximum amount of rebates paid out will be $3,000 or 50% of the total cost, whichever is lower. For example, if a homeowner spends a total of $4,000 on eligible retrofits, they will get $2,000 or 50% back as a rebate. If they spend $8,000 on eligible retrofits, they would only receive $3,000 in rebates instead of $4,000 (which would be 50% of the cost).
• Gold Star – To qualify for the Gold Star program, homeowners must reduce their total home energy consumption by 20%. A $3,000 rebate will be rewarded for this reduction. Homeowners can receive an additional $1,000 for each additional 5% reduction, up to a total rebate of $8,000 or 50% of the total retrofit cost. Rebates may be provided for any of the retrofits listed under the Silver Star program, or for any other energy-saving measure, including: home energy management systems, high-efficiency appliances, highly reflective roofing, awnings, canopies, and similar external fenestration (window) attachments, automatic boiler water temperature controllers, energy-efficient wood products, insulated vinyl siding, and mechanical air circulation and heat exchangers in a passive-solar home.

The Home Star bill also includes rebates for do-it-yourself (DIY) homeowners that are confident in taking on the renovations themselves. DIY’ers can get up to $250 in rebates for products purchased without installation service. This rebate is limited to attic insulation, crawl space insulation and/or air-sealing retrofits.

Seal Your House Envelope and Improve Insulation
Before carrying out any serious retrofit, homeowners need to weatherize and seal their house “envelope.” The envelope includes outer walls, windows, doors, floors and the ceiling. If the house is not properly sealed and insulated, then subsequent HVAC retrofits won’t be as effective.

Common Air Leaks

In some cases, savvy do-it-yourselfers may be able to handle these projects themselves. There are plenty of books and great online resources (e.g. ACEEE.org) that provide instructions. However, you should seriously consider hiring an auditor beforehand. Special diagnostics equipment will show where air is escaping and to what extent. For example, thermal imaging devices detect areas in walls that are poorly insulated and dispersing heat. This information would be unavailable without such devices.

So how much does it cost to seal all the air leaks in a home? Prices will obviously vary based on where you live, how big your property is and the scope of the retrofit. But it will likely cost a few thousand dollars to hire a contractor for this type of renovation. In this example from the New York Times, the author spent $3,760 for insulating and sealing the envelope of his 1,200 square foot home.

How much can homeowners expect to save? The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) estimates that homeowners can save 20% on heating and cooling costs by sealing leaks and adding insulation. In New York – one of the most expensive places to heat a home with an average annual cost of $1,513 – this would be a yearly savings of $300 just for heating.

Continuing with the example from the New York Times, the Silver Star program would provide $1,880 (50%) in rebates for their retrofit. At an annual savings rate of $300, the renovation would pay for itself in six years (or less if you include cost savings from reduced air conditioning bills).

Repair and Replace Leaky Ducts
Ducts are notoriously leaky and inefficient. They are one of the usual suspects in a crime of high utility bills, or when rooms are difficult to heat and cool. The EPA calculates that 20% of air moving through ductwork is lost due to leaks, holes and poor connections. Other sources put estimates closer to 40%. So while suffering from “leaky ducts” may sound innocuous, it can have a big impact on the efficiency and costs of heating and cooling your home.

Fortunately, duct replacement and sealing is eligible for funding under the Home Star bill. Many homeowners will want to outsource this project to a qualified HVAC contractor. Contractors have equipment to detect leaks that otherwise may not be immediately visible. They also have methods to seal ducts that are inaccessible. For example, by spraying an adhesive or sealant through the duct work.

Replacing and sealing ducts can also be a DIY project, especially when ducts can be easily accessed in an attic or basement. Leaks should be sealed with mastic sealant or metal tape (not duct tape), then insulated to reduce heat loss and to further improve efficiency. The Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory has an excellent guide on how to seal and insulate ducts.

Upgrade Your Furnace and Water Heater
Heating is the largest energy expense in homes, according to the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy (ACEEE). In colder parts of the country, it makes up 30 to 50% of annual energy bills. So improving the heating efficiency of your home will have the biggest impact on lowering your energy costs. Sealing air leaks is a good start, but replacing your heating system could provide real leverage towards cost savings.

If your furnace or boiler was purchased before 1990, then it is time to consider an upgrade. Modern furnaces are much more efficient than those that are older than 20 years. You can use rebates from the Home Star bill to replace your furnace, but you will need to meet their guidelines:

Type of Replacement
Requirements
Rebate Amount

Replacement with a natural gas or propane furnace
The furnace must have an AFUE rating of 92 or greater; or an AFUE rating of 95 or greater. Must be installed in accordance with ANSI/ACCA Standard 5 QI-2007.
$750

Replacement with a natural gas or propane boiler
Boiler must have an AFUE rating of 90 or greater. Must be installed in accordance with ANSI/ACCA Standard 5 QI-2007.
$1,000

Replacement with an oil furnace
Furnace must have an AFUE rating of 86 or greater and use an electrically commutated blower motor. Must be installed in accordance with ANSI/ACCA Standard 5 QI-2007.
$1,000

Replacement with an oil boiler
Boiler must have an AFUE rating of 86 or greater and temperature reset or thermal purge controls. Must be installed in accordance with ANSI/ACCA Standard 5 QI-2007.
$1,000

Replacement with a wood or pellet furnace, boiler, or stove
The new system must meet at least 75 percent of the heating demands of the home; and in the case of a wood stove, but not a pellet stove, replace an existing wood stove, but not a pellet stove, and is certified by the Administrator of the EPA. The home must have a distribution system (such as ducts, vents, blowers, or affixed fans) that allows heat to reach all or most parts of the home. In the case where an old wood stove is being replaced, a voucher must be provided by the installer or other responsible party certifying that the old wood stove has been removed and rendered inoperable or recycled at an appropriate recycling facility. An accredited independent laboratory recognized by the Administrator of the EPA must certify that the new system has thermal efficiency (lower heating value) of at least 75 percent for wood and pellet stoves, and at least 80 percent for furnaces and boilers; and has particulate emissions of less than 3.0 grams per hour for stoves, and less than 0.32 lbs/mmBTU for outdoor furnaces and boilers.
$500 for a wood or pellet stove that has a heating capacity of at least 28,000 Btu per hour. $1,000 if it provides 75% of the heating demands of the home.

Water heaters are typically the second largest energy users after home heating and cooling systems. Replacing convention oil-fired water heaters with high-efficiency gas or electric heaters can save homeowners thousands of dollars over a 10 to 15 year period. The Home Star bill includes a variety of replacement options eligible for rebates.

Replacement options
Rebate Amount

Replace with a natural gas or propane condensing storage water heater with an energy factor of 0.80 or more, or a natural gas or propane storage or tankless water heater with thermal efficiency of 90 percent or more.
$1,000

Replace with a tankless natural gas or propane water heater with an energy factor of at least 0.82.
$750

Replace with a natural gas or propane storage water heater with an energy factor of at least 0.67.
$400

Replace with an indirect water heater with an insulated storage tank that has a storage capacity of at least 30 gallons and is insulated to at least R–16; and is installed in conjunction with a qualifying boiler described in the previous table.
$1,000

Replace with an electric water heater with an energy factor of 2.0 or more.
$1,000

Replace with an electric tankless water heater with an energy factor or thermal efficiency, as applicable, of .96 or more or a thermal efficiency of 96 percent or more, that operates on not greater than 25 kilowatts.
$250 each for a maximum of 4 electric tankless water heaters

Replace with a solar hot water system that is certified by the Solar Rating and Certification Corporation or that meets technical standards established by the State of Hawaii.
$1,000

Replace with a water heater installed in conjunction with a qualifying geothermal heat pump – as described in our first table – that provides domestic water heating through the use of a desuperheater or year-round demand water heating capability.
$500 for a desuperheater

Ground Source Heat Pump

An alternative to furnaces and boilers are ground source heat pumps (GSHPs). Also known as geothermal heat pumps, GSHPs are one of the most efficient systems for heating and cooling buildings. According to the International Ground Source Heat Pump Association, GSHPs are 50 to 70% more efficient than other heating systems, and 20 to 40% more efficient than traditional air conditioners. They can also be used as an alternative water-heating system and save up to 50% on water-heating bills.

Ground source heat pumps are more economical than using oil or air-source heat pumps, but there is still a lot of debate over GSHPs versus natural gas. Homeowners will need carry out their own due diligence beforehand. For starters, here is an academic report that compares the two options.

Year over year, a ground source heat pump is more cost effective than natural gas. It’s the initial cost that really drives down the return on investment (ROI) and makes natural gas a more attractive option. However, there are several rebates and tax credits available that help subsidize the upfront cost.

Additional Financing Resources
With other legislation in the queue, it might take weeks or months to hear the Senate’s final decision on the Home Star bill. In the meantime, homeowners can receive funding from other sources to pay for green renovations. The federal government, state governments, local municipalities and even utility companies offer several options.

For example, homeowners can still receive a federal tax credit for 30% of the cost of energy-efficient products (up to a total credit of $1,500). This includes the purchase of central air conditioning systems (both the product and installation), electric heat pumps, furnaces and boilers, and whole-house ventilation fans. Visit the US Department of Energy Energy Savers website for more information.

Another great resource is the Database of State Incentives for Renewables and Efficiency or “DSIRE” website. This allows you to view rebates, loan and grant programs, financing options and tax credits offered in your region.

Finally, new home buyers should consider an energy-efficient mortgage or energy improvement mortgage. These mortgages allow consumers to count savings from energy bills as additional income, ultimately giving them more buying power. Home Energy Magazine has a helpful article here.

Read more: http://www.softwareadvice.com/articles/construction/cash-for-caulkers-the-definitive-guide-to-the-home-star-bill-1061110/#ixzz0rzrtxd85

So we didn’t bring you this news as it broke, but better late than never. This year Gravitas was runner up for Best Log Home Plan Under 2500 SF. This home is adapted from a systems built home we did for a Colorado client. Thanks Log Home Living for the recognition of creative design in the industry.

2009 Country’s Best Log Homes Design Awards

Day in and day out, we here at Country’s Best Log Homes spend our time looking at beautiful log homes. Sound like a dream job? It really is. But it’s also a job we take seriously, making it our priority to bring you the most inspiring homes with personalized touches, loads of curb appeal and, most important, smart designs.
Although we strive to feature the best homes in every issue of our magazine, we thought we’d pack this, our first annual Country’s Best Log Homes Design Awards, with page after page of the most stellar designs the log home industry has to offer, helping you find the champion design that’s perfect for you.
From more than 80 entries, our editorial team carefully examined each submission, weighed its pros and cons, and compared it to what our readers tell us they’re clamoring for: smart plans with exceptional details. With so many brilliant entries, choosing the winners was a tough challenge. In the end, we not only selected a winner in each of our 10 categories, we chose 10 additional entries that we felt deserved a nod.
Enjoy!

Runner-Up: Best Log Home Plan Under 2,500 Square Feet: The Dearborn by Gravitas

Runner Up: Best Log Home Plan Under 2,500 Sq. Feet:
Gravitas | “The Dearborn” | 2009 Country’s Best Log Homes Awards
2009 Country’s Best Log Homes Awards | Country’s Best Log Homes

“The Dearborn” | Gravitas

Square Footage: 2,499

The Log Home Plan:

Upper Level:

 Main Level:

Lower Level:

Return to the 2009 Country’s Best Log Homes Awards main page

In our relentless pursuit for the best (relative) green (relative) options for specifications in our home designs I was tracking down more info on soy based spray foam for a home we are designing for the North End in Boise, Idaho. There are as many “best” ways to super insulate a house as there are builders. What follows is an informative article that I found in my search by John Wagner that was published in Residential Design & Build magazine. John is a regular contributor to many industry magazines and a national speaker. You can learn more about him on his site John Wagner.   Below is the article which does a good job of explaining the difference between open cell and closed cell and the applications for both.

By John Wagner

When I was a working contractor, I remember how daunting it was to walk into a large project, bare studs for walls, knowing that I had to work (with a crew of course) to stuff each bay with fiberglass batts. I remember thinking — like a boy wishing he could fly — if we could only liquefy the insulation and spray it in place the job would go much faster. It would also get the insulation into every nook and cranny and save me from using duct tape in an attempt to remove the itchy glass from my arms and neck.

That was in the 1970s, and little did I know that by the time I got out of the blue collar side of building, just such a thing would be invented in the form of spray foam. I mean, let’s face it, you couldn’t design a better dream product. The stuff flows on as a liquid, fills up every crack and what’s best, teams of guys in white jumpsuits apply it in one day’s time. Heaven.

It’s also very green. The problems with propellants have been largely worked out, and there now are water- and soy-based products as well as isocyanate-free, formaldehyde-free alternatives to suit the greenest customer. Once in place it doesn’t leak or off-gas harmful emissions, and all foams are good at reducing noise transfer and sound penetration. What’s not to like?

Here’s how you differentiate among the two different types of foam, and the attributes for each product category.

OC-SPF. Open-cell spray polyurethane foam cures in place, stays soft and is designed to slow convection (the transfer of heat through the movement of warm matter like air) by leaving irregular bubbles that fill with trapped, ambient air. Weighing in at 0.5 lb. per cu. ft. and scoring around R-3.5 per in., the foam tends to have an R-value close to captured, still air. Although it has less mass (and is therefore less expensive) OC-SPF isn’t a good vapor barrier, and it gets knocked for this.

CC-SPF. Closed-cell spray polyurethane foam cures in place and stays rigid. But unlike open-cell products, its bubbles aren’t irregular or open. The bubbles form by trapping “reaction gas,” which offers insulation properties. With the higher-density foam you get higher R-value around 7 per inch. CC-SPF weighs in at 2.0 lb. per cu. ft. and partially because of its greater mass, it costs more per R than open-cell foam. Unlike its open-cell cousin, CC-SPF is a good vapor barrier and is often code-approved as such. What’s more, CC-SPF can add to the sheer strength of a wall, and in recent tests when sprayed under a roof decking it can help defeat roof uplift (Google search University of Florida, Dr. Prevatt, foam).

By the way, the polyurethane foams you see in molding are of even higher density than CC-SPF, weighing 30 to 40 lb. per cu. ft.

Even after you compare cost and vapor barrier performance, note that some foams are inappropriate in certain applications. Open-cell foam should not be used below grade because it can absorb water. Since water is a poor insulator (relative to air), foam that is soaking wet has dramatically compromised thermal performance. You’ll also want to spec closed-cell foam in tight areas or around utilities where you can’t get the bulk and thickness required by an open-cell product to achieve the designed R-value.

I was in communication with John Wagner a couple months ago about an article he wrote that was published in Residential Design/Build Magazine on Foam Insulation.  I will get to that next week, but first lets talk about wood preservatives, something that comes up every time we design the deck. At Gravitas we have always discuss what is the most responsible way to specify the treatment of wood in decks and porches. Code says “rot resistant” and we take that to mean that you could use sustainably harvested rot resistant species of wood such as redwood or cedar. Unfortunately these species have a decreased structural capacity and thus you need more tightly spaced joists, and/or more girders to shorten the spans of the joists. This always pushes us in the search for the greenest wood treatment options. In the article below John Wagner has outlined some good options, at least the best of the worst so to speak. John, thanks for sharing your knowledge again.

Wood Treatment Basics

By John Wagner

We are seeing some real innovation with wood treatments these days; whether it’s wood for decking, siding, or part of the structural frame. At the root of this topic is the fact that, when left untreated or when unprotected, wood can rot. Even premium species like cedar and redwood—which are naturally decay- and rot-resistant—require treatment to extend their useful lives.

Today’s wood treatments range widely from chemical treatments to heat treatments (a.k.a. “thermally modified wood”). And if you are looking for the green angle here, the simple fact that wood treatments can dramatically extend the life of the wood is a very “green” attribute indeed—in a life cycle analysis, it lowers the environmental costs of re-harvesting (and re-treating, and re-shipping and re-installing) replacement wood products. However, each wood treatment method has its merits, and each one has features that can make it more or less green. Let’s take a closer look by first reviewing a brief history of wood treatment.

Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA)
For a long time, Chromated Copper Arsenate, or “CCA” was the formula for treating lumber. For decades, it was common to see “green” CCA decks – the green was the color of the oxidized copper. And CCA-treated wood was also commonly used in most ground-contact situations. In the ‘90’s new alternatives to CCA were introduced. None took meaningful market share from CCA because none could match its performance and value. As the millennium approached, there was increased scrutiny regarding the perceived safety of CCA as reported by various “consumer advocate” reporters and environmental organizations. In 2003, treaters voluntarily stopped using CCA for residential applications and newer, more expensive formulations replaced CCA. One bright spot that emerged from the demise of CCA was that the pace of innovation in preservative development quickened.

Alkaline Copper (ACQ) & Copper Azole (CA-B)
The replacement wood preservative treatments were ACQ and CA-B. Let’s first look at ACQ.  ACQ is a treatment consisting of alkaline copper, a fungicide, and quaternary ammonia (sometimes called quat), which serves as an insecticide. On the other hand, CA-B is a treatment containing mostly copper and azole; the azole is a fungicide that appears in various chemical forms. If you step back and take notice, there are two consistent elements in these approaches to wood treatment. One, they all are aimed at stopping rot, decay, fungus, and insects from getting to the wood.  And two, they all overwhelmingly contain copper, a natural, harmless wood preservative. As wood treatments have evolved, some wood treaters (and the chemical companies that license their formulas to these wood treaters) have stayed with copper. But they have eliminated other chemicals in their wood preservative formulations.

Micronized Copper (MCQ)
Among the most positive result was the recent introduction of a new micronized copper wood preservative. Developed by Osmose, Inc., and marketed as ProWood Micro (MCQ Treated Wood), the new process bonds microscopic copper particles to the wood cells. Because of this there is no need for a solvent (which is still used in most other non-micronized formulations) . These attributes have earned the ProWood Micro formulation Environmentally Preferrable Product (EPP) status from Scientific Certification Systems, a leading third party certification firm. This is the first and only such preservative to earn this recognition. To earn EPP certification, a product must demonstrate reduced impact on human health and the environment when compared to other products that serve the same purpose as measured by guidelines published by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

Non-metallic
There is another relatively new product out today that is offered by Arch Wood Protection. The treatment is Wolmanized L³ Outdoor wood. It contains no copper as part of the preservative and uses a proprietary non-metallic preservative.

Boric Acid
Yet another class of wood treatment is focused on boric acid, as well as its oxides and salts which are called borates. Boric acid is a very-effective wood preservative. Conveniently, it is toxic to insects, but it has low toxicity with humans. That said, the problem with boric acid has always been that it is water-soluble. That means it can be floated into wood with water-based pressure treatments or applied with surface applications. But the boric acid will eventually leach out of the wood. That leaching process is dramatically accelerated if the wood is exposed to the elements. All of this means that wood treated with borates isn’t generally good for ground contact, and in any application, it has to be re-treated repeatedly with borate applications to ensure that the wood is preserved. Now, because borates have gotten another look from consumers, due to the perceived toxicity of alternative wood treatments, borates have seen some innovative uses. One company floats borate deep into wood fiber by mixing it with glycol, a kind of alcohol. The glycol flashes off, leaving the borate behind, and until the borate leaches out, it is a good termiticide, insecticide, and wood preservative. But here too, the wood has to be re-treated regularly.

Thermally-Modified Wood (TMW)
Another kind of wood treatment that you see gaining wider acceptance is heat treatment. Wood that is treated with heat is generally referred to as thermally-modified wood or TMW. This treatment process contains no chemicals or additives at all.  Like its name says, the thermally-modified process uses high heat and steam to change the very nature of the wood. In fact, the thermal process removes the aspects of the wood that serve as food. With no insects, fungus, or mold attacking the wood, the thermally-modified process can prevent for rot and decay. Specifically, the process removes or de-natures the sugars in the wood, leaving behind aspects of the wood that cannot be digested by insects or eaten by fungus and mold. After the wood is thermally treated, it can be stained, sealed, joined, and glued like regular wood.

No matter what type of treated wood you seek, you should be aware of its code acceptance. Some treatments are not code compliant, even though they have been around for a number of years. To get code approval, preservative companies can either work with the American Wood Protection Association (AWPA) to have their treated wood listed in the AWPA Standards. Or the preservative company will work with the International Code Council (ICC) Evaluation Service to earn an Evaluation Service Report (ESR). Without the support of either an AWPA listing or an ESR, there is no guarantee that a local code will allow a product on the job where treated wood is required. So, check the fact sheet from the wood provider or the wood treater to see if the wood is approved for use.

The Gunnison Main Level Log Home Plan

The Gunnison Upper Level Log Home Plan

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