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So we didn’t bring you this news as it broke, but better late than never. This year Gravitas was runner up for Best Log Home Plan Under 2500 SF. This home is adapted from a systems built home we did for a Colorado client. Thanks Log Home Living for the recognition of creative design in the industry.

2009 Country’s Best Log Homes Design Awards

2009 Country's Best Log Homes Design Awards
Day in and day out, we here at Country’s Best Log Homes spend our time looking at beautiful log homes. Sound like a dream job? It really is. But it’s also a job we take seriously, making it our priority to bring you the most inspiring homes with personalized touches, loads of curb appeal and, most important, smart designs.
Although we strive to feature the best homes in every issue of our magazine, we thought we’d pack this, our first annual Country’s Best Log Homes Design Awards, with page after page of the most stellar designs the log home industry has to offer, helping you find the champion design that’s perfect for you.
From more than 80 entries, our editorial team carefully examined each submission, weighed its pros and cons, and compared it to what our readers tell us they’re clamoring for: smart plans with exceptional details. With so many brilliant entries, choosing the winners was a tough challenge. In the end, we not only selected a winner in each of our 10 categories, we chose 10 additional entries that we felt deserved a nod.
Enjoy!


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Runner-Up: Best Log Home Plan Under 2,500 Square Feet: The Dearborn by Gravitas


Runner Up: Best Log Home Plan Under 2,500 Sq. Feet:
Gravitas | “The Dearborn” | 2009 Country’s Best Log Homes Awards
2009 Country’s Best Log Homes Awards | Country’s Best Log Homes


“The Dearborn” | Gravitas

Square Footage: 2,499

The Log Home Plan:

Upper Level:

Runner Up: Best Log Home Plan Under 2,500 Square Feet | Gravitas | The Dearborn

 Main Level:

Runner Up: Best Log Home Plan Under 2,500 Square Feet | Gravitas | The Dearborn

Lower Level:

Runner Up: Best Log Home Plan Under 2,500 Square Feet | Gravitas | The Dearborn

Return to the 2009 Country’s Best Log Homes Awards main page

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In our relentless pursuit for the best (relative) green (relative) options for specifications in our home designs I was tracking down more info on soy based spray foam for a home we are designing for the North End in Boise, Idaho. There are as many “best” ways to super insulate a house as there are builders. What follows is an informative article that I found in my search by John Wagner that was published in Residential Design & Build magazine. John is a regular contributor to many industry magazines and a national speaker. You can learn more about him on his site John Wagner.   Below is the article which does a good job of explaining the difference between open cell and closed cell and the applications for both.

 

By John Wagner

When I was a working contractor, I remember how daunting it was to walk into a large project, bare studs for walls, knowing that I had to work (with a crew of course) to stuff each bay with fiberglass batts. I remember thinking — like a boy wishing he could fly — if we could only liquefy the insulation and spray it in place the job would go much faster. It would also get the insulation into every nook and cranny and save me from using duct tape in an attempt to remove the itchy glass from my arms and neck.

That was in the 1970s, and little did I know that by the time I got out of the blue collar side of building, just such a thing would be invented in the form of spray foam. I mean, let’s face it, you couldn’t design a better dream product. The stuff flows on as a liquid, fills up every crack and what’s best, teams of guys in white jumpsuits apply it in one day’s time. Heaven.

It’s also very green. The problems with propellants have been largely worked out, and there now are water- and soy-based products as well as isocyanate-free, formaldehyde-free alternatives to suit the greenest customer. Once in place it doesn’t leak or off-gas harmful emissions, and all foams are good at reducing noise transfer and sound penetration. What’s not to like?

Here’s how you differentiate among the two different types of foam, and the attributes for each product category.

OC-SPF. Open-cell spray polyurethane foam cures in place, stays soft and is designed to slow convection (the transfer of heat through the movement of warm matter like air) by leaving irregular bubbles that fill with trapped, ambient air. Weighing in at 0.5 lb. per cu. ft. and scoring around R-3.5 per in., the foam tends to have an R-value close to captured, still air. Although it has less mass (and is therefore less expensive) OC-SPF isn’t a good vapor barrier, and it gets knocked for this.

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CC-SPF. Closed-cell spray polyurethane foam cures in place and stays rigid. But unlike open-cell products, its bubbles aren’t irregular or open. The bubbles form by trapping “reaction gas,” which offers insulation properties. With the higher-density foam you get higher R-value around 7 per inch. CC-SPF weighs in at 2.0 lb. per cu. ft. and partially because of its greater mass, it costs more per R than open-cell foam. Unlike its open-cell cousin, CC-SPF is a good vapor barrier and is often code-approved as such. What’s more, CC-SPF can add to the sheer strength of a wall, and in recent tests when sprayed under a roof decking it can help defeat roof uplift (Google search University of Florida, Dr. Prevatt, foam).

By the way, the polyurethane foams you see in molding are of even higher density than CC-SPF, weighing 30 to 40 lb. per cu. ft.

Even after you compare cost and vapor barrier performance, note that some foams are inappropriate in certain applications. Open-cell foam should not be used below grade because it can absorb water. Since water is a poor insulator (relative to air), foam that is soaking wet has dramatically compromised thermal performance. You’ll also want to spec closed-cell foam in tight areas or around utilities where you can’t get the bulk and thickness required by an open-cell product to achieve the designed R-value.

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I was in communication with John Wagner a couple months ago about an article he wrote that was published in Residential Design/Build Magazine on Foam Insulation.  I will get to that next week, but first lets talk about wood preservatives, something that comes up every time we design the deck. At Gravitas we have always discuss what is the most responsible way to specify the treatment of wood in decks and porches. Code says “rot resistant” and we take that to mean that you could use sustainably harvested rot resistant species of wood such as redwood or cedar. Unfortunately these species have a decreased structural capacity and thus you need more tightly spaced joists, and/or more girders to shorten the spans of the joists. This always pushes us in the search for the greenest wood treatment options. In the article below John Wagner has outlined some good options, at least the best of the worst so to speak. John, thanks for sharing your knowledge again.

Wood Treatment Basics

By John Wagner

ProWood Micro Pressure treated 4x4 lumberWe are seeing some real innovation with wood treatments these days; whether it’s wood for decking, siding, or part of the structural frame. At the root of this topic is the fact that, when left untreated or when unprotected, wood can rot. Even premium species like cedar and redwood—which are naturally decay- and rot-resistant—require treatment to extend their useful lives.

Today’s wood treatments range widely from chemical treatments to heat treatments (a.k.a. “thermally modified wood”). And if you are looking for the green angle here, Wood Treatment Tankthe simple fact that wood treatments can dramatically extend the life of the wood is a very “green” attribute indeed—in a life cycle analysis, it lowers the environmental costs of re-harvesting (and re-treating, and re-shipping and re-installing) replacement wood products. However, each wood treatment method has its merits, and each one has features that can make it more or less green. Let’s take a closer look by first reviewing a brief history of wood treatment.

Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA)
For a long time, Chromated Copper Arsenate, or “CCA” was the formula for treating lumber. For decades, it was common to see “green” CCA decks – the green was the color of the oxidized copper. And CCA-treated wood was also commonly used in most ground-contact situations. In the ‘90’s new alternatives to CCA were introduced. None took meaningful market share from CCA because none could match its performance and value. As the millennium approached, there was increased scrutiny regarding the perceived safety of CCA as reported by various “consumer advocate” reporters and environmental organizations. In 2003, treaters voluntarily stopped using CCA for residential applications and newer, more expensive formulations replaced CCA. One bright spot that emerged from the demise of CCA was that the pace of innovation in preservative development quickened.

Alkaline Copper (ACQ) & Copper Azole (CA-B)
The replacement wood preservative treatments were ACQ and CA-B. Let’s first look at ACQ.  ACQ is a treatment consisting of alkaline copper, a fungicide, and quaternary ammonia (sometimes called quat), which serves as an insecticide. On the other hand, CA-B is a treatment containing mostly copper and azole; the azole is a fungicide that appears in various chemical forms. If you step back and take notice, there are two consistent elements in these approaches to wood treatment. One, they all are aimed at stopping rot, decay, fungus, and insects from getting to the wood.  And two, they all overwhelmingly contain copper, a natural, harmless wood preservative. As wood treatments have evolved, some wood treaters (and the chemical companies that license their formulas to these wood treaters) have stayed with copper. But they have eliminated other chemicals in their wood preservative formulations.

Micronized Copper (MCQ)
Among the most positive result was the recent introduction of a new micronized copper wood preservative. Developed by Osmose, Inc., and marketed as ProWood Micro (MCQ Treated Wood), the new process bonds microscopic copper particles to the wood cells. Because of this there is no need for a solvent (which is still used in most other non-micronized formulations) . These Environmentally Preferable Product (EPP) statementattributes have earned the ProWood Micro formulation Environmentally Preferrable Product (EPP) status from Scientific Certification Systems, a leading third party certification firm. This is the first and only such preservative to earn this recognition. To earn EPP certification, a product must demonstrate reduced impact on human health and the environment when compared to other products that serve the same purpose as measured by guidelines published by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

Non-metallic
There is another relatively new product out today that is offered by Arch Wood Protection. The treatment is Wolmanized L³ Outdoor wood. It contains no copper as part of the preservative and uses a proprietary non-metallic preservative.

Boric Acid
Yet another class of wood treatment is focused on boric acid, as well as its oxides and salts which are called borates. Boric acid is a very-effective wood preservative. Conveniently, it is toxic to insects, but it has low toxicity with humans. That said, the problem with boric acid has always been that it is water-soluble. That means it can be floated into wood with water-based pressure treatments or applied with surface applications. But the boric acid will eventually leach out of the wood. That leaching process is dramatically accelerated if the wood is exposed to the elements. All of this means that wood treated with borates isn’t generally good for ground contact, and in any application, it has to be re-treated repeatedly with borate applications to ensure that the wood is preserved. Now, because borates have gotten another look from consumers, due to the perceived toxicity of alternative wood treatments, borates have seen some innovative uses. One company floats borate deep into wood fiber by mixing it with glycol, a kind of alcohol. The glycol flashes off, leaving the borate behind, and until the borate leaches out, it is a good termiticide, insecticide, and wood preservative. But here too, the wood has to be re-treated regularly.

Thermally-Modified Wood (TMW)
Another kind of wood treatment that you see gaining wider acceptance is heat treatment. Wood that is treated with heat is generally referred to as thermally-modified wood or TMW. This treatment process contains no chemicals or additives at all.  Like its name says, the thermally-modified process uses high heat and steam to change the very nature of the wood. In fact, the thermal process removes the aspects of the wood that serve as food. With no insects, fungus, or mold attacking the wood, the thermally-modified process can prevent for rot and decay. Specifically, the process removes or de-natures the sugars in the wood, leaving behind aspects of the wood that cannot be digested by insects or eaten by fungus and mold. After the wood is thermally treated, it can be stained, sealed, joined, and glued like regular wood.

No matter what type of treated wood you seek, you should be aware of its code acceptance. Some treatments are not code compliant, even though they have been around for a number of years. To get code approval, preservative companies can either work with the American Wood Protection Association (AWPA) to have their treated wood listed in the AWPA Standards. Or the preservative company will work with the International Code Council (ICC) Evaluation Service to earn an Evaluation Service Report (ESR). Without the support of either an AWPA listing or an ESR, there is no guarantee that a local code will allow a product on the job where treated wood is required. So, check the fact sheet from the wood provider or the wood treater to see if the wood is approved for use.

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This entry is part 13 of 46 in the series Plan of the Month
The Gunnison is the classic log home shape with some added elements that really set it apart. An extruded stair well and steep roof pitches on the main ridge give this home much more appeal than the standard 70’s shaped log home that you see so often. This home has a cute little guest suite above the garage. Call and we can customize it to your wants and needs.
The Gunnison Main Level Log Home Plan

The Gunnison Main Level Log Home Plan

The Gunnison Upper Level Log Home Plan

The Gunnison Upper Level Log Home Plan

Download our full plan book which has all of our published Plan of the Month Plans. Gravitas Design Series Plan Book  Sign up for our plan of the month to be delivered to your inbox here: Gravitas Sign up.

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