Gravitas Blog

SIP roofs and SIP walls in the building industry are short hand for Structurally Insulated Panels. Basically a layer rigid foam sandwiched between two layers of plywood (typically oriented strand board, or OSB) with integral structural members (2×6, 2×10, etc.). Some companies adhere the finished ceiling material like tongue and groove pine on the inside face as shown below. These panels are made to the specific structural and insulating requirements of your home, the thicker the panel, the greater the R Value. The construction time can be reduced because the panels arrive ready to tilt up or fly in on a crane and are pre-cut to fit.

Photo: Eagle PanelPhoto: Precision Panel

The Following is a discussion on the Pros and Cons of Structurally Insulated Panels (SIPS) by Steve Hancock at The Log Connection up in beautiful BC, Canada. It’s a good summary of some of the SIPS applications and benefits. Thanks Steve for sharing your insights. We specify SIPS on many of our projects and have used Precision Panel locally, Eagle Panel in Illinois, and Enercept in South Dakota.

The Log Connection takes great care to ensure that our homes are handcrafted with the best techniques for ensuring a weather tight seal. The SIP panel (Structural Insulated Panel) system works in very will in some applications and for some people…. but not everyone. A large part of the decision is understanding all of the pros vrs. cons of the product and making sure they work for your design. We have outlined a number of areas that we review and discuss with our clients when making the decision of conventional framing vrs SIP panels.
ROOF PROS:
It’s our opinion that the the use of the SIP panels on the roof system is an efficient way to install a roof system quickly. The more simple the roof line, the more practical the application. In most situations, the panels can be made to easily span between our roof logs and be completely roofed in a just days. The thicker the panel the higher the R-value. If made the same thickness as a conventional roof the rating is about 30% and higher depending on the manufacture. The panels are pre-cut at the assembly plant so the on site waste and clean up is lower with the use of the SIPs

Photo: Precision Panel
ROOF CONS:
Most of our home owners are as interested in the look of their home as they are in the efficiency of the products. On of the largest issues our home owners have is the accent lighing you see in the ceiling of nearly all our homes. It is not yet possible to install a recessed or pot light into a SIP panel. In areas with heavy snow loads the design of long overhangs are be limited to that of the panel.
WALL PROS:
The wall systems stand and install quickly on our post and beam homes and the upper gable ends of the stacked log packages. The pre-cut panels* are ready to install when delivered to job site.
Openings are pre-cut for window and doors, minimal framing or trim work should be required. The on site waste and clean up is lower with the use of the SIPs

Photo: Enercept
WALL CONS:
The largest issue we have with the wall panels is that the exterior sheathing of the the panel is cut flush to the edge. We have a system that allows the exterior sheathing and interior drywall to EXTEND INTO the posts. This creates an impenetrable weather seal and no drafts at the joint. When butting a SIP up against the post there will eventually need to be a weather block/ trim installed to stop the draft. Hanging small pictures will be fine but without heavy artwork and shelving should may not be possible due to no solid stud to fasten. Installing unplanned electrical boxes is a huge hassle and requires cutting and patching of the panels. Pre-plan and you will be fine.
* Rarely will the SIP manufactures visit the job site to acquire and verify the as build measurements. Therefore they will not assume any responsibility if the as built conditions are not 100% CADD prefect.
To sum it all up, the SIP panel it’s a great product when used with the right conditions with reasonable expectations. We encourage the conventional stick build system for our stacked log, and the post & beam homes. The SIP panel is recommended with our timber frame homes.
Steve

The Merced is a project that comes to us out of our archives.  This 1,784 Square foot home with 3 bedrooms and two baths, has the traditional lines of its Texas neighborhood, infused with a contemporary stone and truss entry.  The wide open porches almost double the living space for entertaining and relaxing and offer great views of the prairie surrounding the original lot.  The screened in section extends its usability into the evenings.  Sometimes traditions are better left honored, and this home has done a good job doing just that.  The Owner’s Suite is located conveniently on the main level, with two additional bedrooms upstairs, and a large loft overlooking the Gathering Room, which could be turned into a great office space or play area.

We have construction drawings ready for purchase off the shelf, or we can work with you or your client to customize any of our homes.  Don’t forget to check out our other Plan of the Month homes

Solimpeks Corp has unveiled a hybrid solar panel, Volther hybrid photovoltaic-solar thermal collector, that incorporates both Photovoltaic technology, as well as providing domestic hot water.

Typically, one of the larger impediments to efficient energy harnessing from a PV system, is the fact that as the panel heats up, the efficiency drops off.  By tying the two systems together, the domestic hot water collector acts as a cooling device for the PV portion of the panel, not only limiting the footprint of a dual system, but also improving the performance of the PV portion.

Traditional PV systems loose efficiency at the rate of 1/2% per degree of temperature increase.  Research and Develompent at Solimpeks claims that PV efficiency has been tested as high as 28%, while producing 104-160 degree water.  By stabilizing the panel at 113 degrees, approximately 20% more electrical output is produced, as when compared to a traditional PV system with the same peak output.

According to the company, tests by independent organizations have shown that an average single family residence in Northern Europe would need 270 square feet to meet their hot water and electrical demands.

Solimpeks Volther offers two different models, emphasizing either hot water collection, or electrical energy production.  The PV utilizes monocrystalline silicon cells, and the hot water portion uses copper tubing.

The first system was installed in May, 2010 in England, and the company sells directly to the US market from Turkey.

MarkWagner<>Gravitas

Gravitas is a Custom Home design company.  That’s what we do, or at least, that’s a majority of what we do.  One of the immensely satisfying aspects of our job, is to work with a family, tease out their wants and needs in a new home, balance those needs with the reality of their budget, site constraints, or Home Owners Association, and arrive at a unique solution for that particular family.  Sometimes reinventing the wheel isn’t always necessary.  We might have worked out a particularly successful kitchen arrangement in a previous home.  Or maybe they found us through our web site, and one of our homes caught their eye.  They want our “Sages”, plan, with some modifications.  This happens all of the time, and that’s what those plans are there for, to inspire our clients, or prospective clients.

Sometimes, though, we meet with a couple, and in their scrap book for their dream home they have found a plan from an architect, or building company that they just love.  They want “That” home, with some modifications.  That’s when we have the discussion about intellectual property rights.  We are in the creation business.  So is our competition. US copyright law has given everyone a tool with which to protect their investment in time, and secure the right to use a design, work of art, book, or any unique published creation.  We go through great lengths respecting the copyright that others have over their work.  We’ve lost projects, because we have told our prospective clients that we can’t copy someone else’s design.  We either need to purchase the right to use it, or come up with something new.

This is where a lot of the commentary in the industry lies.  How much do you need to change a plan to make it unique, or at least to not infringe on the copyright holder?  Let me preface this, and everything else before, and after with a disclaimer.  I am not a lawyer.  I don’t pretend to be one, nor do I want to be one.  I am just a person that has had to  work with intellectual property rights since I first started down the architecture path many years ago.  The words in this entry are purely my own opinion, and you should seek the counsel of someone versed in your specific needs, as necessary. .

The rule of thumb in the industry that I was taught was that it’s acceptable to use another persons idea, as long as I changed the design by 17%..  I think this is rather comical. What constitutes 17%?  I certainly don’t know if moving a bathroom, and enlarging the floor plan is adequate.  I can’t track 17% changes to something, and if we were concerned about just meeting that number, we would not be doing our clients any justice.  If you think you so close that you need to know what 17% is, you are way too close.

We have a program called “Plan of the Month”.  This is where we take one of our past projects and offer it as a “standard” plan.  These are our unique creations based on specific client parameters, so we may use them in any manner we see fit.  We have outlined what rights we have reserved for Gravitas in the contract with our clients, as well as on our title block, so all parties are aware of what is happening.

Recently we issued out one of our plans in this manner.  Later, after reviewing an issue of Log Home Living, we noticed that there was a plan very similar to one we had created.  Immediately, we went to our files, to see what had happened.  As a general rule, the first thing we do is make sure that we didn’t step on any toes, and take something that wasn’t ours.  We always respect where an idea comes from in the design process, but you can’t always control where a client is inspired.  It turns out that there were some plan sketches in the file that the owner provided, and they looked too close to the published plan for comfort.  We didn’t infringe on copyright with our process, but the owner brought something into the system that wasn’t acceptable and put us in a predicament.  We notified the company that had published the plan, and let them know we had just become aware of the problem, and had removed it from use in our plan book.  Luckily we are on good terms with them, and they could see we took the necessary steps to stop the infringement that had been caused.

The courts use a determination of “substantial similarity.”) when figuring out if there is an infringement case.  This is a subjective determination but that is the nature of design.  It comes down to if an ordinary observer, after discounting disparities in the design, would find the two designs to be substantially similar).  For us, it comes down to a gut check; if we feel two designs look close to each other, they are, and we address the problem.

We work with contractors or log, timber, or modular manufacturers that have stock plans.  They often wish to have their plan used with a prospective client, but with some changes.  In this instance, that company is the copyright holder, and so it works out well.  Where there is a problem, is when a client brings in a plan from a log home manufacturer (for instance), and they want to go elsewhere for their log materials but use that plan.  We have a simple answer.  Either license the right to use the plan from the original creator, or let’s start from scratch.

Going through our design process and creating a unique design for the specific needs of a client ends up with a home that is better tailored to the individual.  We say that you shouldn’t modify your living habits to match a particular stock plan, but that you should modify your building design to match your particular living habits.  A fully custom home is not always in the needs of our clients though.  These are times when a stock plan would be useful.  Some copyright holders offer their plans for use on a licensing basis for a small fee. This would allow you to use the plan as a template to make your changes. At Gravitas we currently license our plans for $.25/SF. We have relationships with many contractors, developers and manufactures and they highlight our plans on their web sites as “The Gravitas Series”, or in some other manner acknowledging the source of the material. This allows them to show our plans and then license them for use with individual clients if they want to use their own in-house designers without any copyright infringement.

MarkWagner<>Gravitas

We recently had the pleasure of visiting one of our smaller structures as it is going through its final steps before completion.  Derek Hurd of Gravitas worked with a couple from Texas that were permanently relocating to Boise, Idaho.  They asked Derek to design for them a small accessory dwelling unit (ADU), behind the home they had owned for a few years, but rented out.  They had decided to move permanently to Boise, and the small building would serve as a writing loft for the couple.  They gave Derek a little direction to go by asking him to be inspired by Japanese Tea houses.  The couple referred to the ADU as the “Writing Shed”.  At Gravitas, we called it a “Zen-in-Law”.  Either way, it got the point across, a small out-building, dedicated to the more contemplative things.

The owners came across our company through a mutual friend.  We’re always appreciative when past clients, and future friends can pass along our name to those in need of thoughtful design.  After the owners diligently investigated us, and our web presence, they called, and discussed their needs with Derek.  What ensued was the typical package of sketches being sent, and descriptions of likes, and dislikes.  Derek then integrated all of the ideas, and came up with a  contemporary little writing studio.

We are only a few days away from the final punch list, and we hope to get photographs of the finished work in a few weeks.  Good timing to enjoy the cool Boise evenings.  I’ll be sure to include them in a future post.

Here we can see the little house in all of its glory.  One of Derek’s soft spots is for the faithful ‘butterfly roof’.  It’s simplicity in design ins contrasted with its complexity of construction.  We were treated to some interesting stories of its construction by the crew from Green Remodeling, who did a terrific job helping to realize the owner’s dreams, and Derek’s vision.  One of the wonderful things about this sort of roof, is the fact that all of the wall studs, and all of the roof rafters are unique in length.  This, in addition to the compound angle makes a standard out of the box approach to construction unsuccessful.  Thankfully, Kenji Wright, John King, and Josh Bogle were able to accommodate the design, and deal with the mathematics of the framing.

As with any remodel, or addition, staging the construction of the project can present some challenges.  The site is located at the back of the lot, perched 30 feet above the road.  Luckily there was a vacant lot behind the building (behind the fencing we see to the right).  Through this lot, they were able to bring in the concrete for the foundation, and the floor, as well as the other building materials.  Utilities had to be trenched out to the front of the house.

Siding is T-111 no groove panel, with 1×2” cedar battens at 16” on center.  All earth tones on the finishes help to reinforce the timber feeling, and blend in with the surrounding landscape.  One of the not so surprising ramifications of a ‘butterfly roof’ is the tremendous water collection that it affords.  In this case, the runoff is channeled to a small spillway, that deflects the force of the water as it hits the ground.  The rain is then allowed to gently seep into the soil.  That’s the theory at least.  I’ll check in next spring, and see how things are going.

A fish-eye perspective of Kenji finishing taping before the final finish is put on the loft floor.  The open loft looks down into the common area, with a kitchenette, and writing bench below the window.

Family friend “Woody” stands at the ready to greet any new arrivals.   The owners’ other pooch, a Corgi, is behind the scenes, making sure that everything is built according to plan.  The deck makes a nice perch to view the rest of the yard, and the use of canted beams eliminates the columns breaking up the natural flow, and the site lines.

The landscape walls are made of lava rock, and they turned an aggressively sloping back yard into a series of terraces.  This created much more usable space for the family to enjoy the Boise summers on, and it helps mitigate the runoff, allowing it to soak into the soil, and not run unhindered towards the house, and deck below.  Again, this will be interesting to revisit, after the owner has had an opportunity to enjoy the home for a season or two.

The Laramie

We could tell that this was a special little home from the beginning.  We’ve adopted it into our “Plan of the Month” series that we offer.  We have renamed it to protect the innocent to the “Laramie”.  We haven’t updated our plans list on the site yet, but if you are interested, here is a link to the plan information. We are currently working on the animation for the building, so check back with us next week, and it should be wrapped up.

–Click on the image to download additional content–

I think Derek did an outstanding job on this little home.  It provides the owners with a little get-away retreat, as well as a working office to write from.  It has a sleeping loft, kitchen, full bath, and an area to stretch out in.  There is not much more you can ask for.

Mark Wagner<>Gravitas

The following is a great write up Houston Neal asked us to post to our readers in the sustainable building community. A comprehensive look at the proposed Cash for Caulkers proposal. We are all waiting on word if it will pass the Senate. Enjoy.

By: Houston Neal

Director of Marketing at Software Advice 

(512) 364-0117
LinkedIn »

Houston joined Software Advice in 2007, just shortly after the company was started. He spends most of his day writing for the company blog and getting the word out about Software Advice’s resources. He enjoys researching and reporting trends in software and technology, and has a particular interest in developments in “green” technology.

Director of Marketing, Software Advice
on 6/11/2010

“Cash for Caulkers” is nearly here. Last month the House of Representatives passed H.R. 5019 – also known as the Home Star Energy Retrofit Act of 2010 or “Cash for Caulkers” – to kick-start construction, create jobs and cut back carbon emissions. While the bill still needs to clear the Senate, supporters predict it will pass this summer.

This is great news for homeowners and contractors alike. The bill provisions $6 billion for energy-efficient or “green” retrofits. It is expected to fund renovations for 3 million families, create 168,000 new jobs and save consumers $9.2 billion on energy bills over the next 10 years.

But in order to cash in on upcoming rebates, homeowners and contractors will need to do their homework. There are 13 types of retrofits eligible for funding. Each retrofit has unique eligibility requirements and set rebate amounts. You can read the full text here.

We made it really easy to wade through the legalese. Below is a table that breaks down the 13 retrofits of the bill, along with the requirements and rebate amount for each. In addition to the requirements we listed, each retrofit must comply with Building Performance Institute (BPI) standards or other procedures to be approved by the Secretary of Energy.

Retrofit
Requirements
Rebate Amount

Air sealing
Rebate covers both interior and exterior sealing and includes use of the following products: sealants, caulks, insulating foams, gaskets, weather-stripping, mastics, and other building materials.
$1,500

Attic insulation
Must meet the attic portions of the Department of Energy (DOE) or Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) thermal bypass checklist. You must add at least R–19 insulation to existing insulation, and it must result in at least R–38 insulation in DOE climate zones 1 through 4 and at least R–49 insulation in DOE climate zones 5 through 8. Finally, it must cover at least 100 percent of an accessible attic or 75 percent of the total conditioned footprint of the house.
$1,000

Duct replacement and sealing
Sealing must be installed in accordance with BPI standards or other procedures approved by the Secretary of Energy. For duct replacement, you must replace and seal at least 50 percent of a distribution system of the home.
$1,000

Wall insulation
Insulation must be installed to full-stud thickness or add at least R–10 of continuous insulation. It must covers at least 75 percent of the total external wall area of the home.
$1,500

Crawl space or basement insulation
Insulation must cover at least 500 square feet of crawl space or basement wall and add at least R–19 of cavity insulation or R–15 of continuous insulation to existing crawl space insulation; or R–13 of cavity insulation or R–10 of continuous insulation to basement walls. For rim joist insulation, you must fully cover the rim joist with at least R–10 of new continuous or R–13 of cavity insulation.
$250 for rim joist insulation

Window replacement
Must replace at least 8 exterior windows, or 75 percent of the exterior windows in a home, whichever is less, with windows that are certified by the National Fenestration Rating Council. Must comply with criteria applicable to windows under section 25(c) of the Internal Revenue Code of 1986 or, in areas above 5,000 feet elevation, have a U-factor of at least 0.35 when replacing windows that are single-glazed or double-glazed with an internal air space of 1/4 inch or less.
$1,000

Door or skylight replacement
Must replace at least 1 exterior door or skylight with doors or skylights that comply with the 2010 Energy Star specification for doors or skylights.
$125 per door or skylight with a limit of 2 doors and 2 skylights

Heating system replacement
See second table below
$1,000

Air-source air conditioner or heat pump installation
Must be installed in accordance with ANSI/ACCA Standard 5 QI–2007. The air-source air conditioner must meet or exceed SEER 16 and EER 13; or SEER 18 and EER 15. The air-source heat pump must meet or exceed SEER 15, EER 12.5, and HSPF 8.5.
$1,500

Geothermal heat pump installation
Must be an Energy Star qualified geothermal heat pump that meets Tier 2 efficiency requirements and that is installed in accordance with ANSI/ACCA Standard 5 QI–2007.
$1,000

Water heater replacement
See third table below
$1,000

Storm windows or doors installation
Must be installed on at least 5 existing doors or existing single-glazed windows. Must comply with any procedures that the Secretary of Energy may set for storm windows or doors and their installation.
$50 for each window or door with a minimum of 5 windows or doors and a maximum of 12

Window film installation
Window film that is installed on at least 8 exterior windows, doors, or skylights, or 75 percent of the total exterior square footage of glass in a home, whichever is more, with window films that are certified by the National Fenestration Rating Council. Must have a solar heat gain coefficient of 0.43 or less with a visible light-to-solar heat gain coefficient of at least 1.1 for installations in 2009 International Energy Conservation Code climate zones 1–3; or a solar heat gain coefficient of 0.43 or less with a visible light light-to-solar heat gain coefficient of at least 1.1 and a U-factor of 0.40 or less as installed in 2009 International Energy Conservation Code climate zones 4–8.
$500

We also decided to combine these retrofits into three packages that will help homeowners get the best bang for their buck. But first, let’s review the program details.

Who is Eligible and How to Qualify?
The Home Star bill offers two rebate programs, the “Silver Star” program and “Gold Star” program. Here are details for each:

• Silver Star – Unless another amount is specified in the “Rebate Amount” column above, homeowners will receive a $1,000 rebate for each retrofit listed in our table. The maximum amount of rebates paid out will be $3,000 or 50% of the total cost, whichever is lower. For example, if a homeowner spends a total of $4,000 on eligible retrofits, they will get $2,000 or 50% back as a rebate. If they spend $8,000 on eligible retrofits, they would only receive $3,000 in rebates instead of $4,000 (which would be 50% of the cost).
• Gold Star – To qualify for the Gold Star program, homeowners must reduce their total home energy consumption by 20%. A $3,000 rebate will be rewarded for this reduction. Homeowners can receive an additional $1,000 for each additional 5% reduction, up to a total rebate of $8,000 or 50% of the total retrofit cost. Rebates may be provided for any of the retrofits listed under the Silver Star program, or for any other energy-saving measure, including: home energy management systems, high-efficiency appliances, highly reflective roofing, awnings, canopies, and similar external fenestration (window) attachments, automatic boiler water temperature controllers, energy-efficient wood products, insulated vinyl siding, and mechanical air circulation and heat exchangers in a passive-solar home.

The Home Star bill also includes rebates for do-it-yourself (DIY) homeowners that are confident in taking on the renovations themselves. DIY’ers can get up to $250 in rebates for products purchased without installation service. This rebate is limited to attic insulation, crawl space insulation and/or air-sealing retrofits.

Seal Your House Envelope and Improve Insulation
Before carrying out any serious retrofit, homeowners need to weatherize and seal their house “envelope.” The envelope includes outer walls, windows, doors, floors and the ceiling. If the house is not properly sealed and insulated, then subsequent HVAC retrofits won’t be as effective.

Common Air Leaks

In some cases, savvy do-it-yourselfers may be able to handle these projects themselves. There are plenty of books and great online resources (e.g. ACEEE.org) that provide instructions. However, you should seriously consider hiring an auditor beforehand. Special diagnostics equipment will show where air is escaping and to what extent. For example, thermal imaging devices detect areas in walls that are poorly insulated and dispersing heat. This information would be unavailable without such devices.

So how much does it cost to seal all the air leaks in a home? Prices will obviously vary based on where you live, how big your property is and the scope of the retrofit. But it will likely cost a few thousand dollars to hire a contractor for this type of renovation. In this example from the New York Times, the author spent $3,760 for insulating and sealing the envelope of his 1,200 square foot home.

How much can homeowners expect to save? The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) estimates that homeowners can save 20% on heating and cooling costs by sealing leaks and adding insulation. In New York – one of the most expensive places to heat a home with an average annual cost of $1,513 – this would be a yearly savings of $300 just for heating.

Continuing with the example from the New York Times, the Silver Star program would provide $1,880 (50%) in rebates for their retrofit. At an annual savings rate of $300, the renovation would pay for itself in six years (or less if you include cost savings from reduced air conditioning bills).

Repair and Replace Leaky Ducts
Ducts are notoriously leaky and inefficient. They are one of the usual suspects in a crime of high utility bills, or when rooms are difficult to heat and cool. The EPA calculates that 20% of air moving through ductwork is lost due to leaks, holes and poor connections. Other sources put estimates closer to 40%. So while suffering from “leaky ducts” may sound innocuous, it can have a big impact on the efficiency and costs of heating and cooling your home.

Fortunately, duct replacement and sealing is eligible for funding under the Home Star bill. Many homeowners will want to outsource this project to a qualified HVAC contractor. Contractors have equipment to detect leaks that otherwise may not be immediately visible. They also have methods to seal ducts that are inaccessible. For example, by spraying an adhesive or sealant through the duct work.

Replacing and sealing ducts can also be a DIY project, especially when ducts can be easily accessed in an attic or basement. Leaks should be sealed with mastic sealant or metal tape (not duct tape), then insulated to reduce heat loss and to further improve efficiency. The Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory has an excellent guide on how to seal and insulate ducts.

Upgrade Your Furnace and Water Heater
Heating is the largest energy expense in homes, according to the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy (ACEEE). In colder parts of the country, it makes up 30 to 50% of annual energy bills. So improving the heating efficiency of your home will have the biggest impact on lowering your energy costs. Sealing air leaks is a good start, but replacing your heating system could provide real leverage towards cost savings.

If your furnace or boiler was purchased before 1990, then it is time to consider an upgrade. Modern furnaces are much more efficient than those that are older than 20 years. You can use rebates from the Home Star bill to replace your furnace, but you will need to meet their guidelines:

Type of Replacement
Requirements
Rebate Amount

Replacement with a natural gas or propane furnace
The furnace must have an AFUE rating of 92 or greater; or an AFUE rating of 95 or greater. Must be installed in accordance with ANSI/ACCA Standard 5 QI-2007.
$750

Replacement with a natural gas or propane boiler
Boiler must have an AFUE rating of 90 or greater. Must be installed in accordance with ANSI/ACCA Standard 5 QI-2007.
$1,000

Replacement with an oil furnace
Furnace must have an AFUE rating of 86 or greater and use an electrically commutated blower motor. Must be installed in accordance with ANSI/ACCA Standard 5 QI-2007.
$1,000

Replacement with an oil boiler
Boiler must have an AFUE rating of 86 or greater and temperature reset or thermal purge controls. Must be installed in accordance with ANSI/ACCA Standard 5 QI-2007.
$1,000

Replacement with a wood or pellet furnace, boiler, or stove
The new system must meet at least 75 percent of the heating demands of the home; and in the case of a wood stove, but not a pellet stove, replace an existing wood stove, but not a pellet stove, and is certified by the Administrator of the EPA. The home must have a distribution system (such as ducts, vents, blowers, or affixed fans) that allows heat to reach all or most parts of the home. In the case where an old wood stove is being replaced, a voucher must be provided by the installer or other responsible party certifying that the old wood stove has been removed and rendered inoperable or recycled at an appropriate recycling facility. An accredited independent laboratory recognized by the Administrator of the EPA must certify that the new system has thermal efficiency (lower heating value) of at least 75 percent for wood and pellet stoves, and at least 80 percent for furnaces and boilers; and has particulate emissions of less than 3.0 grams per hour for stoves, and less than 0.32 lbs/mmBTU for outdoor furnaces and boilers.
$500 for a wood or pellet stove that has a heating capacity of at least 28,000 Btu per hour. $1,000 if it provides 75% of the heating demands of the home.

Water heaters are typically the second largest energy users after home heating and cooling systems. Replacing convention oil-fired water heaters with high-efficiency gas or electric heaters can save homeowners thousands of dollars over a 10 to 15 year period. The Home Star bill includes a variety of replacement options eligible for rebates.

Replacement options
Rebate Amount

Replace with a natural gas or propane condensing storage water heater with an energy factor of 0.80 or more, or a natural gas or propane storage or tankless water heater with thermal efficiency of 90 percent or more.
$1,000

Replace with a tankless natural gas or propane water heater with an energy factor of at least 0.82.
$750

Replace with a natural gas or propane storage water heater with an energy factor of at least 0.67.
$400

Replace with an indirect water heater with an insulated storage tank that has a storage capacity of at least 30 gallons and is insulated to at least R–16; and is installed in conjunction with a qualifying boiler described in the previous table.
$1,000

Replace with an electric water heater with an energy factor of 2.0 or more.
$1,000

Replace with an electric tankless water heater with an energy factor or thermal efficiency, as applicable, of .96 or more or a thermal efficiency of 96 percent or more, that operates on not greater than 25 kilowatts.
$250 each for a maximum of 4 electric tankless water heaters

Replace with a solar hot water system that is certified by the Solar Rating and Certification Corporation or that meets technical standards established by the State of Hawaii.
$1,000

Replace with a water heater installed in conjunction with a qualifying geothermal heat pump – as described in our first table – that provides domestic water heating through the use of a desuperheater or year-round demand water heating capability.
$500 for a desuperheater

Ground Source Heat Pump

An alternative to furnaces and boilers are ground source heat pumps (GSHPs). Also known as geothermal heat pumps, GSHPs are one of the most efficient systems for heating and cooling buildings. According to the International Ground Source Heat Pump Association, GSHPs are 50 to 70% more efficient than other heating systems, and 20 to 40% more efficient than traditional air conditioners. They can also be used as an alternative water-heating system and save up to 50% on water-heating bills.

Ground source heat pumps are more economical than using oil or air-source heat pumps, but there is still a lot of debate over GSHPs versus natural gas. Homeowners will need carry out their own due diligence beforehand. For starters, here is an academic report that compares the two options.

Year over year, a ground source heat pump is more cost effective than natural gas. It’s the initial cost that really drives down the return on investment (ROI) and makes natural gas a more attractive option. However, there are several rebates and tax credits available that help subsidize the upfront cost.

Additional Financing Resources
With other legislation in the queue, it might take weeks or months to hear the Senate’s final decision on the Home Star bill. In the meantime, homeowners can receive funding from other sources to pay for green renovations. The federal government, state governments, local municipalities and even utility companies offer several options.

For example, homeowners can still receive a federal tax credit for 30% of the cost of energy-efficient products (up to a total credit of $1,500). This includes the purchase of central air conditioning systems (both the product and installation), electric heat pumps, furnaces and boilers, and whole-house ventilation fans. Visit the US Department of Energy Energy Savers website for more information.

Another great resource is the Database of State Incentives for Renewables and Efficiency or “DSIRE” website. This allows you to view rebates, loan and grant programs, financing options and tax credits offered in your region.

Finally, new home buyers should consider an energy-efficient mortgage or energy improvement mortgage. These mortgages allow consumers to count savings from energy bills as additional income, ultimately giving them more buying power. Home Energy Magazine has a helpful article here.

Read more: http://www.softwareadvice.com/articles/construction/cash-for-caulkers-the-definitive-guide-to-the-home-star-bill-1061110/#ixzz0rzrtxd85

The following is from a newsletter from our engineer Brian Sielaff of Tamarack Grove Engineering. Brian has been engineering our projects since the beginning and specializes in structural engineering for residential projects as well as engineering for log and timber frame homes.  Enjoy:

The common goal on any log home/timber frame design and construction is to have a client’s experience that is built on trust and understanding. From the very beginning, there are a lot of decisions that need to be made with building a structure. Often referred to as the ‘process’, one must decide on several key items such as budgets, the style of the home, floor plan layouts, total square footages, which manufacturing company to use and then finally who the general building contractor will be. One often overlooked decision in this process is the need for structural engineering design and review.

Structural engineering of your log home/timber frame structure ensures that all building elements of your final construction permit documents are:

1) Well coordinated

2) Have been properly sized for all structural components such as roof framing members (girders, joists, outriggers, ridge beams), floor framing members (girders, joists, ledgers), headers, decks, columns, foundations and retaining walls

3) Ensures that all connections and details are adequately designed using the correct building codes, loads and load paths, and

4) Verifies the building lateral loads (out-of-plane wind or earthquake loads) have been taken into account and are properly resisted.

Often the question is asked, “When is structural engineering required for my log home/timber frame structure?” Based upon where you are building your structure, some of the local building departments and/or local governing jurisdictions will require some form of professional structural engineering construction documents and calculations that are to be stamped and signed by a licensed professional engineer. These documents would include your foundation plan, floor framing plans, roof framing plan, building sections, structural details, general structural notes and structural engineering calculations. Several factors that would require or cause recommendation for structural engineering include, but are not limited to:

1) You are building within a high snow load area

2) You are located within a high wind or earthquake zone

CA FL

3) The complexity of your final floor plans and building elevations (i.e. how each floor level stacks up, is there a prow, are there a lot of exterior windows or opening placements, the column/post spacings, beam/girder spans, is there a daylight basement, etc.)

4) The local governing building jurisdiction requires sealed and signed drawings and engineering for issuance of building permits?

REQUIRED FOR ISSUANCE OF PERMIT

5) The defining site requirements in which you are building your log home/timber frame structure on (i.e. is the building pad site flat or sloped, are you building into a hillside or next to water and what are the native soil bearing types that would dictate the foundation design).

6) How complex the building connections, framing layouts and required detailing are? Do you rely on the general contractor to ‘figure it out’ in the field or do you provide a well coordinated, detailed set of construction documents?

7) How experienced is the designer, drafter or architect in sizing correctly all aspects of the structural framing components to resist all vertical/gravity and lateral load transfer?

A structural engineer can also work with your local jurisdiction to help streamline the ‘process’ and obtain your building permit in a timely fashion, this then allows you, your log home/timber frame company and your general building contractor to begin work. A structural engineer can also be available through the construction process to help answer or clarify any questions that can arise from the construction phase.

Whether it is required or not, it is highly recommended to consult with a licensed professional structural engineer on any log home/timber frame structure that you are building. The common goal for any structural engineer is to safeguard life, health, property and public welfare through the design and implementation process. When put into perspective with what typical structural engineering fees are in relation to the overall cost of your project, you will find that these fees are typically less than 1% of your overall construction budget. For the quality assurance that you are given knowing your structure is designed and coordinated properly by a structural engineer, it provides the additional assurance for your insurance in protecting your life long investment.

-Brian J. Sielaff, P.E., Managing Member, Tamarack Grove Engineering, PLLC

Specializing in Structural Engineering

(Please feel free to contact our office for any questions or comments that you might have related to this article, we can be reached at the following information noted below.)

3170 Overland Rd., Ste. B

Boise, ID 83705

208.345.8941 PHONE, 208.345.8946 FAX, 208.871.0616 MOBILE

brian.sielaff@tamarackgrove.com EMAIL

www.tamarackgrove.com WEBSITE

The Clearwater will be built in Lenore, Idaho, overlooking the Clearwater River.  At three levels, with 2,681 SF, it can accommodate a growing family, or the empty nester.  The view of the river from the rear is accentuated with a full height gable, and two, wide porches.  The upper level has a small loft area that will be used as an office.

The plan utilizes wide plank siding to take advantage of high R-value insulation, and a tight building envelope.  Hand stacked trusses on the wings, and parallel chord trusses over the central portion help to create a vaulted affect on the interior, while keeping costs under control.  Timber accents throughout the home help tie it all together.

Download our full plan book which has all of our published Plan of the Month Plans. Gravitas Design Series Plan Book  Sign up for our plan of the month to be delivered to your inbox here: Gravitas Sign up.

So we didn’t bring you this news as it broke, but better late than never. This year Gravitas was runner up for Best Log Home Plan Under 2500 SF. This home is adapted from a systems built home we did for a Colorado client. Thanks Log Home Living for the recognition of creative design in the industry.

2009 Country’s Best Log Homes Design Awards

Day in and day out, we here at Country’s Best Log Homes spend our time looking at beautiful log homes. Sound like a dream job? It really is. But it’s also a job we take seriously, making it our priority to bring you the most inspiring homes with personalized touches, loads of curb appeal and, most important, smart designs.
Although we strive to feature the best homes in every issue of our magazine, we thought we’d pack this, our first annual Country’s Best Log Homes Design Awards, with page after page of the most stellar designs the log home industry has to offer, helping you find the champion design that’s perfect for you.
From more than 80 entries, our editorial team carefully examined each submission, weighed its pros and cons, and compared it to what our readers tell us they’re clamoring for: smart plans with exceptional details. With so many brilliant entries, choosing the winners was a tough challenge. In the end, we not only selected a winner in each of our 10 categories, we chose 10 additional entries that we felt deserved a nod.
Enjoy!

Runner-Up: Best Log Home Plan Under 2,500 Square Feet: The Dearborn by Gravitas

Runner Up: Best Log Home Plan Under 2,500 Sq. Feet:
Gravitas | “The Dearborn” | 2009 Country’s Best Log Homes Awards
2009 Country’s Best Log Homes Awards | Country’s Best Log Homes

“The Dearborn” | Gravitas

Square Footage: 2,499

The Log Home Plan:

Upper Level:

 Main Level:

Lower Level:

Return to the 2009 Country’s Best Log Homes Awards main page

In our relentless pursuit for the best (relative) green (relative) options for specifications in our home designs I was tracking down more info on soy based spray foam for a home we are designing for the North End in Boise, Idaho. There are as many “best” ways to super insulate a house as there are builders. What follows is an informative article that I found in my search by John Wagner that was published in Residential Design & Build magazine. John is a regular contributor to many industry magazines and a national speaker. You can learn more about him on his site John Wagner.   Below is the article which does a good job of explaining the difference between open cell and closed cell and the applications for both.

By John Wagner

When I was a working contractor, I remember how daunting it was to walk into a large project, bare studs for walls, knowing that I had to work (with a crew of course) to stuff each bay with fiberglass batts. I remember thinking — like a boy wishing he could fly — if we could only liquefy the insulation and spray it in place the job would go much faster. It would also get the insulation into every nook and cranny and save me from using duct tape in an attempt to remove the itchy glass from my arms and neck.

That was in the 1970s, and little did I know that by the time I got out of the blue collar side of building, just such a thing would be invented in the form of spray foam. I mean, let’s face it, you couldn’t design a better dream product. The stuff flows on as a liquid, fills up every crack and what’s best, teams of guys in white jumpsuits apply it in one day’s time. Heaven.

It’s also very green. The problems with propellants have been largely worked out, and there now are water- and soy-based products as well as isocyanate-free, formaldehyde-free alternatives to suit the greenest customer. Once in place it doesn’t leak or off-gas harmful emissions, and all foams are good at reducing noise transfer and sound penetration. What’s not to like?

Here’s how you differentiate among the two different types of foam, and the attributes for each product category.

OC-SPF. Open-cell spray polyurethane foam cures in place, stays soft and is designed to slow convection (the transfer of heat through the movement of warm matter like air) by leaving irregular bubbles that fill with trapped, ambient air. Weighing in at 0.5 lb. per cu. ft. and scoring around R-3.5 per in., the foam tends to have an R-value close to captured, still air. Although it has less mass (and is therefore less expensive) OC-SPF isn’t a good vapor barrier, and it gets knocked for this.

CC-SPF. Closed-cell spray polyurethane foam cures in place and stays rigid. But unlike open-cell products, its bubbles aren’t irregular or open. The bubbles form by trapping “reaction gas,” which offers insulation properties. With the higher-density foam you get higher R-value around 7 per inch. CC-SPF weighs in at 2.0 lb. per cu. ft. and partially because of its greater mass, it costs more per R than open-cell foam. Unlike its open-cell cousin, CC-SPF is a good vapor barrier and is often code-approved as such. What’s more, CC-SPF can add to the sheer strength of a wall, and in recent tests when sprayed under a roof decking it can help defeat roof uplift (Google search University of Florida, Dr. Prevatt, foam).

By the way, the polyurethane foams you see in molding are of even higher density than CC-SPF, weighing 30 to 40 lb. per cu. ft.

Even after you compare cost and vapor barrier performance, note that some foams are inappropriate in certain applications. Open-cell foam should not be used below grade because it can absorb water. Since water is a poor insulator (relative to air), foam that is soaking wet has dramatically compromised thermal performance. You’ll also want to spec closed-cell foam in tight areas or around utilities where you can’t get the bulk and thickness required by an open-cell product to achieve the designed R-value.